36 Hours
36 Hours in Split, Croatia
It’s easy to fall for Split, Croatia’s largest seaside city, which sprouted from a palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian 17 centuries ago. And with the country’s recent adoption of the euro and entrance into the European Union’s border-free Schengen Area, it has become even easier to swoon over the history and ancient ruins that abound here. Still, travelers to Split soon discover that the unofficial capital of Dalmatia, as the country’s southern coast is known, is no museum piece trapped under glass. Equal parts chic Adriatic beach town, active archeological site and proud, gritty port city, Split is fueled by long seafood lunches, ancient traditions and wine-filled evenings. “We’re great hosts,” said Ivica Puljak, the physicist-turned-mayor of Split, in an interview. “But our priority is that Split remains a living center for our citizens.”
Recommendations
- The Riva, called Split’s living room, is the city’s seaside promenade and a prime spot for coffee and people-watching.
- Diocletian’s Palace was built between 295 and 305 A.D. for the retiring Roman Emperor. The palace’s structure still forms Split’s core.
- The Museum of Fine Arts, just outside the palace’s Golden Gate, displays works from the 14th century until today.
- The Meštrović Gallery celebrates the work of sculptor Ivan Meštrović in the sprawling summer villa he built in the 1930s.
- AndAdventure offers sailing expeditions from Split’s harbor that include wine, cheese and prosciutto.
- The Klis Fortress, known as the “key to Dalmatia,” occupies a strategic position that has protected Split and surroundings for millenniums.
- Salona was once one of the Roman Empire’s largest cities. Today, it is an open-air museum filled with sarcophagi and an amphitheater.
- Bačvice Beach is perhaps Split’s most famous beach. Sandy and shallow, it’s also a favorite for families and active locals.
- The Pazar, the outdoor green market, is next to the palace and a daily pilgrimage for locals buying fresh fruits and vegetables.
- The Ribarnica, Split’s fish market, is another ritual for citizens and restaurateurs, who come to buy the daily catch from generations of mongers.
- Marjan Forest Park is a great getaway that stretches over 742 protected acres of serene nature on a peninsula west of the center.
- Dvor serves modern, beautifully executed Dalmatian dishes to terraced tables along the shore.
- Bar Sistema is helping to expand Split’s traditional mix of libations with international and locally inspired cocktails.
- Kruščić, an artisan bakery behind the fish market, sells loaves and pastries from organic, whole-grain flour.
- Villa Spiza, a go-to restaurant in the historic center, creates a new menu and new dishes based on fresh ingredients every day.
- Chef’s Table is a pop-up dining experience that takes guests on a Dalmatian journey.
- Soul is a new lounge with a courtyard terrace, a relaxed vibe, and local beer, wine and spirits.
- Baraka BBQ and Brew Bar pours craft beer from a nearby brewery and stages blues and rock ’n’ roll shows.
- Dujkin Dvor, a restaurant facing the fishermen’s harbor, Matejuška, dishes up traditional marenda (a hearty, mid-morning meal) favorites.
- Teraca Vidilica, which serves food and drinks, has arguably the best terrace in town with panoramic views of Split.
- Nadalina, located inside the palace, is a bean-to-bar chocolate shop that offers an array of choices and roasts beans from around the world.
- Uje Oil Bar, a shop and restaurant within the palace walls, sells an assortment of Croatian delicacies, including olive oil, jam, and wine.
- Break Time creates custom nautical rope bracelets in an on-site atelier just a few hundred feet from the Adriatic Sea.
- Heritage Hotel Antique Split, inside the Diocletian Palace complex itself, is a boutique hotel with eight comfortable rooms and a personalized feel. Doubles begin at €150.
- After a nearly eight-decade hiatus, the Hotel Ambasador (opened in 1937 and closed after World War II) reopened last year. The redesigned 101-room hotel, on Split’s so-called West Bank (the Riva’s western extension), has wellness amenities and a rooftop pool with island views. Doubles from €110.
- The Santa Lucia Heritage Hotel, on the historic center’s main square, dates to 1776 and reopened in 2021 following a renovation. Some of the 35 airy rooms have palace wall views, and the hotel’s Central Kavana (cafe) and Restaurant has been a cultural anchor for centuries. Doubles start from €105.
- For short-term rentals, the Varoš neighborhood sits between the center and Marjan Peninsula. Bačvice’s villas are perfect for beach access. Toć is a five-minute walk to the Riva and just behind the main ferry harbor.
- Split is a walking city; nearly every attraction is a close and flat stroll away. Buses are dependable, and traditional taxis, as well as ride-hailing services like Uber and Bolt, are reliable choices. Perhaps the best option for convenience and cost is to use the city’s bike-sharing app, Nextbike.
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