Review: The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo

Set the scene for us.
At first, the somewhat austere, gray facade of the National Museum of Modern Art feels at odds with the surrounding greenery of Kitanomaru Park. Inside, however, is one of the finest collections of modern Japanese art in the world. Walking through the galleries on the fourth and second floors allows you to see some of the most turbulent periods in the nation’s past through the eyes of its most influential artists. Though the film portion of the museum split off last year to form the National Film Center, the Crafts Gallery is still a short walk away in the beautifully restored former headquarters of the Imperial Guards.

What will we find among the collection?
More than 13,000 paintings, prints, drawings, video installations, and sculptures reside within the museum’s vaults and exhibition halls. Although there are a number of significant international works, the permanent collection’s strength lies in Japanese masters from the Meiji Period onward. English-language signs provide crucial historical context for each artist. The Crafts Gallery showcases a slice of MOMAT’s collection of 3,800-plus masterful pieces of Japanese textiles, lacquerware, ceramics, bamboo, and other forms of design.

Any temporary exhibitions we should be sure to check out?
Swing through the first floor to check out the thoughtful themed special exhibitions that rotate three to four times annually. Despite significant renovations in 2012, the museum’s galleries can feel a bit dated in terms of lighting and presentation.

Who are we likely to see here?
While the slick triad of art museums in Roppongi fills up during peak times, a visit here tends to be far more relaxed; even on weekends, long lines are rare. That seems to suit the visitors just fine—the works here invite leisurely contemplation. Most families and school groups head to the nearby Science Museum, leaving this choice for the in-the-know art-lovers.

How easy is it to navigate?
Benches and chairs scattered throughout provide a reprieve for weary legs. Efficient elevators and wide hallways make the museum a welcoming space for visitors with mobility issues.

On our way out, should we make time for the gift shop?
Design aficionados will enjoy perusing the ceramics and coffee table books. While the museum shop is definitely worth a look, much of the merchandise feels generic rather than specific to the stellar collection.

And if we're in need of a pit stop, how's the café?
L’art et Mikuni, the museum’s French-Italian restaurant, occupies a light-filled space overlooking the park. While the sophisticated setting is perfect for a glass of wine and leisurely meal, the set menus may be a bit much for a casual bite.

How much time should we allot for our visit?
Itching to walk over to the Imperial Palace? Breeze through the permanent collection galleries at your own pace. The museum’s curators organize works both chronologically and thematically, making it easy to follow the narrative thread even if you’re in a rush.