Review: Kowloon Walled City Park

What’s this place all about?
It’s hard to imagine that this peaceful green park was once the site of a lawless enclave and one of the world's largest slums. First used as a Chinese command center, Kowloon Walled City was left deserted when the British colonial powers took control of Hong Kong; however, the enclave was excluded from the treaty. Even though the British eventually took control of the area, they were very hands off. As a result, by the 1950s, the empty fort evolved into a maze of makeshift towers, where impoverished families lived among drug dealers, gangs, and fugitives. Former residents have described it as “a city within a city”—so dense that once you passed into the alleyways, you might not see sunlight for days. Finally, in 1993, the British colonial government relocated the enclave’s 30,000-some residents and demolished the illegal structures.

What’s it like being there?
If you were hoping to see a six-acre matrix of makeshift towers, opium dens, and dank alleyways, then you’ll have to use your imagination. There’s hardly anything left of the old slums, aside from one of the administrative buildings (called a yamen) and a small-scale model of the walled city.

Is there a guide involved?
There are no private tours here, but the park offers guided group tours for visitors at set times on weekends. We’d suggest calling ahead to ensure that there will be an English-speaking guide.

Who comes here?
Travelers with a penchant for history tend to enjoy a visit to the peaceful site, which represents the polar opposite of the Walled City’s notorious enclave. At the same time, lots of Hongkongers simply enjoy sitting on the benches, walking with their pet birds, or doing tai chi in the park.

Did it meet expectations?
Most people make the trip to Kowloon Walled City Park (about 40 minutes from Central on the MTR) knowing that the site was once a mecca of vice, so it can be a little surprising to encounter a manicured, Chinese-style park. The fascinating story will likely inspire many to read more about the Walled City’s evolution and eventual dismantling.

What, or who, do you think it’s best for?
Those fascinated by the history of the Walled City—and what it might have been like to live there—will appreciate the remaining artifacts and explanatory plaques. Everyone else will enjoy the fresh air, bamboo groves, pavilions, Qing Dynasty–style Chinese gates, flower gardens, and pretty ponds. Ironically, this is now one of the most pleasant corners in Hong Kong.