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The City of Darkness

Exploring the Enigmatic History and Legacy of Kowloon Walled City

By LiliPublished 9 months ago 8 min read
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Once upon a time, there existed a city so densely packed that it relied on a lone mail carrier. Personally, I wouldn't trade my job for his, not in the slightest. Despite his small delivery route, which barely covered a hundredth of a square mile, it was astonishingly crammed with people.

Just imagine it for a moment. Around 350 buildings, most of them towering between 10 and 14 floors high, squeezed into that minuscule space. These buildings housed an astounding 8,000 businesses, over ten thousand families, and a total population exceeding 33,000 individuals.

It was truly an urban jungle. Tall, slender towers stood shoulder to shoulder, creating the impression of a single colossal, living, breathing structure rather than a conventional city. The buildings themselves were a hodgepodge of different materials, lacking any consistent appearance or feel. Iron balconies mingled with brick extensions and concrete walls. Wires and cables crisscrossed the landscape, snaking up and down the buildings, connecting rooftop antennas or winding their way around structures. It was as if a multitude of dark threads intricately bound the entire place together.

Stepping into this city was an extraordinary experience. A labyrinth of narrow alleys sprawled throughout, some nestled beneath buildings, while others resembled tunnels. These passageways were formed by heaps of trash deposited on the netting that connected these structures. And let's not forget the pipes! They were everywhere, most of them leaking and rusting away. The city's mail carrier, clever as he was, always wore a hat to dodge the incessant drips. As for the residents, they had their own solution—they carried umbrellas even on sunny days.

You might assume that elevators would assist in such a place, right? Well, surprise! There were only two elevators for the entire city. But this city was more than just a cluster of buildings. It was a thriving hub of life and commerce. Factories produced various goods, with corridors often dusted with flour from noodle-making activities. Chemical odors wafted through the air, originating from metal and plastic manufacturers. Doctors and dentists proudly offered their services. Streets like Big Well Street, Bright Street, and Dragon Street Road buzzed with shops and food stalls, some even offering exotic delicacies. Further into the city, the constant clicking of Mahjong tiles filled the air.

This was a lawless land, a self-regulating and self-determining society—a city within a city, a small but fiercely contested and overlooked territory. Its name was Kowloon Walled City, though the locals referred to it as the City of Darkness. Today, remnants of this peculiar place can be found in Hong Kong, a city equally steeped in history and complexity. But how did the City of Darkness come into existence?

Allow me to spare you the historical back-and-forth and provide a brief summary. After a series of conflicts, authorities began constructing a fort at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula in the 1840s. This stronghold was substantial, surrounded by a 700-foot long, 400-foot wide wall. It housed official agencies and accommodated over a hundred people. However, about two decades later, conflicts erupted once again in the area, and foreigners seized control of the entire Kowloon Peninsula, except for the Walled City.

For the next 30 years, the Walled City fiercely resisted any attempts to take it over. Eventually, living conditions in Kowloon became dire, prompting Hong Kong authorities to plan a cleanup. But the city's inhabitants were reluctant to leave. They resisted, and news of their defiance spread far and wide. Life in Kowloon persisted, albeit in an unregulated manner. Five notorious gangs took advantage of the city's extralegal status and flourished, completely transforming a place that was ironically built to safeguard the local area.

Yet, Kowloon wasn't solely defined by lawlessness. Amidst the chaos, enterprising individuals seized opportunities. Factories sprouted up, producing goods distributed not only across Hong Kong but also globally. Despite the ongoing turmoil, the Walled City evolved, and a system of self-governance emerged. Living conditions were cramped, but the people of Kowloon showcased remarkable resilience. Without restrictions on construction methods, towering buildings emerged, leaning on one another for support, creating a unique City of Darkness.

Finally, in 1987, the Hong Kong government decided to clear the area without any interference. By July 1992, all residents had been evicted, and Kowloon Walled City was enclosed by a tall wire fence tracing the outlines of the original granite wall. In March 1993, the demolition process commenced, and within a year, the City of Darkness ceased to exist. Today, the former site of Kowloon Walled City has been transformed into Kowloon Walled City Park, a tranquil green space that serves as a reminder of the place's extraordinary history and legacy.

Kowloon W"The Enigmatic Kowloon Walled City: A Tale of Density and Resilience"

Once upon a time, there existed a densely packed city that relied on a solitary mail carrier. I, for one, would never trade my job for his. Despite his minuscule delivery route, covering barely a hundredth of a square mile, it was bursting at the seams with people.

Take a moment to visualize it. Around 350 buildings, towering between 10 and 14 floors, crammed into that tiny space. These buildings housed a staggering 8,000 businesses, over ten thousand families, and a total population exceeding 33,000 individuals.

It was an urban jungle in every sense. Tall, slim towers stood side by side, creating the illusion of a single enormous, pulsating structure rather than a conventional city. The buildings themselves lacked uniformity, a mishmash of different materials. Iron balconies mingled with brick extensions and concrete walls. Wires and cables snaked their way around, connecting rooftop antennas or weaving through the surroundings. It seemed as though countless dark threads were intricately tying the entire place together.

Stepping foot into this city was an unparalleled experience. Countless narrow alleys wound through the landscape, some tucked beneath buildings, others resembling tunnels. These passages were formed by heaps of trash piled onto the netting that connected the constructions. And let's not forget the ubiquitous pipes! They were everywhere, dripping with leakage and rusting away. The city's mail carrier, wise as he was, always wore a hat to dodge the incessant drips. The residents had their own solution—they carried umbrellas even on sunny days.

One might assume that elevators would ease the situation, but surprise! There were only two for the entire city. Yet, this city was more than a mere cluster of buildings. It pulsed with life and commerce. Factories churned out all manner of goods. Corridors were dusted with flour from noodle-making activities, while chemical scents wafted from metal and plastic manufacturers. Doctors and dentists proudly practiced their craft. Streets like Big Well Street, Bright Street, and Dragon Street Road bustled with shops and food stalls, some offering exotic delicacies. Further into the city, the constant clicking of Mahjong tiles filled the air.

It was a lawless land—a self-regulating, self-determining society—a city within a city, a small territory fiercely contested yet overlooked. Officially known as Kowloon Walled City, it was affectionately dubbed the City of Darkness by locals. Nowadays, fragments of this peculiar place can be found in Hong Kong, a city equally rich in history and complexity. But how did the City of Darkness come to be?

Let's skip the historical back-and-forth and summarize briefly. In the 1840s, authorities began constructing a fort at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula following a series of conflicts. This stronghold was substantial, surrounded by a 700-foot long, 400-foot wide wall. It housed official agencies and accommodated over a hundred people. However, about two decades later, conflicts erupted again, and foreigners seized control of the entire Kowloon Peninsula, except for the Walled City.

For the next 30 years, the Walled City fiercely resisted any attempts at takeover. Eventually, living conditions in Kowloon deteriorated, prompting Hong Kong authorities to plan a cleanup. But the city's residents were reluctant to leave. They fought back, and news of their defiance spread far and wide. Life in Kowloon persisted, albeit in an unregulated manner. Five notorious gangs exploited the city's extralegal status and thrived, completely reshaping a place that was originally intended to safeguard the local area.

However, Kowloon wasn't solely defined by lawlessness. Amidst the chaos, enterprising individuals seized opportunities. Factories sprang up, producing goods that found their way across Hong Kong and even beyond. Despite ongoing turmoil, the Walled City evolved, and a system of self-governance emerged. Living conditions were cramped, but the people of Kowloon displayed remarkable resilience. With no restrictions on construction, high-rise buildings sprouted, leaning on each other for support, creating a unique City of Darkness.

Finally, in 1987, the Hong Kong government decided to clear the area without any interference. By July 1992, all residents had been evicted, and Kowloon Walled City was enclosed by a tall wire fence tracing the outlines of the original granite wall. The demolition process began in March 1993, and within a year, the City of Darkness was no more. Today, the former site of Kowloon Walled City has been transformed into Kowloon Walled City Park—a serene green space that serves as a reminder of its remarkable history and legacy.

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